Monday October 15, 2007
Despite rumors that this morning would be weak, it turned out to be just right for me. Heavy marine layer with the rising sun poking out here and there. A pod of dolphins sharing the linup with Kevin, me and two other surfers.
Kevin was having fun dropping in on my waves. The dolphins wanted in on the fun and a dolphin, me and Kevin rode one wave. Definite first for me.
Clean conditions. The waves were breaking on the outer sand bar, so lots of LONG paddles this morning as the waves were breaking what seemed like miles from the beach.
One of the guys sharing the peak with us was really good and would finish all his rides by launching into a back flip (or two), he was having fun and I was pretty stoked just to watch it.
Chest to shoulder high, no wind, no crowds, doesn't get much better for me. Now only if I had another hour....
Too bad a storm is coming through this evening that will mess it all up.
PS: I learned two things this morning 1) if the waves aren't breaking nice, then move to where they are (seems obvs, I know) 2) the first board I bought doesn't suck. I did. I am now good enough to ride it. Sweet.